Carretera Nacional 340, KM 1171, 143
AP7, exit 32 (Altafulla)
Sweep and I spent two and a half weeks at this campsite during low season and unfortunately during a period of terrifying storms. If you want scary, try being in a tent alone with a puppy during thunder cracks that make the ground shudder like it’s fracturing beneath you, and in high winds that blow your tent away.
The location of the campsite is stunning, when the wind isn’t blowing your teeth off. Random tiers with numbered plots overlook the beautiful creamy sands of a fat beach. The other side of the campsite there is a beautiful wooded area that leads to tiny coves where you might find plenty of sun worshippers lolloping around with nowt on, whether you want to or not.
The woods aren’t massive but big enough to get a little bit lost in. Good lost. Not get airlifted out three days later suffering from hypothermia and dehydration, lost. You can easily spend a few hours walking around, lazing on one of the little beaches and then seeking respite from the sun back in the woods, where you can look down on to the cheezily azure waters. And as dogs have to be kept on leads throughout the campsite, this is the perfect spot for letting the little one of the leash and letting him bomb about like a befurred rocket. On the other end of the beach, you can climb across rocks and arrive at a beautiful cathedral and beyond that you will find Altafulla where another stocky beach awaits you. Altafulla town has a wider choice of restaurants and shops and a train station where you can get trains to Tarragona in one direction, and Barcelona in the other.
Apparently La Mora gets very busy during the high season but whilst I was there, other than weekends it was a pleasantly quiet site. Weekends got much busier with humans and their squawking progeny, but it was never unbearably full of hoi polloi.
The facilities are great; clean and well taken care of by a workforce of industrious cleaners. The staff in the reception are friendly and very professional and all speak perfect English. They will also recharge your computer and phone at reception, if you are camping and don’t have power.
It has a bit of a holiday camp vibe but nothing the location doesn’t compensate for.
There is an onsite shop that has the basics but very little in the way of healthy or natural food. I believe they do have a range of fruit and vegetables during the high season but throughout my stay what they did have was pretty poxy. The woman who worked there most of the time (Rosa?) was delightful and even gave me free lemons when I had a bad cold, and gave me strict instructions on how to prepare a hot lemon and honey drink. Another woman works there who is about 10% as likeable. (Ok you made me say it, she was a grumpy bitch.) There is a little corner shop in La Mora (near the bank and next to the pharmacy) which has a slightly better range of foods, but even better, there is a massive Carrefour near Tarragona that sells soy and rice milk, rice cakes, organic brown rice, olive oils, organic breads and cookies, and a massive range of fresh fruit and vegetables.
We weren’t allowed into the pool area (where the wi-fi was) because Sweep has fur and two extra legs, but most of the cafes along the beachfront have wi-fi you can use and outdoor terraces where dogs are welcome.
I paid €11 a night for me, Sweep and a tent – as we didn’t have transport and because I stayed a while. See their website for prices.
Beautiful site, and although the staff at the campsite were pretty Draconian about dogs, there are plenty of great walks for them in every direction, but best to take dogs on the beaches very early morning during the summer because it is illegal to take dogs on beaches. Ridiculous, irritating but true.